June 8--The Misty Mountain, Gordon, and Cherries
Holy smokes what an amazing day! I feel like I start every other day like that, but today it was really true. Today we went back to our roots of the Camino - hills, humidity and forest. That is how we started our day in Roncesvalles, and since I'd say around Burgos, it's been less of that, and more plains, sun and flat ground. But today we had a BIG OL' MOUNTAIN we ended up climbing, and it was just amazing. Not only were the views from the mountain majestic and picturesque, but the mountain was swathed in fog and clouds in the morning, the trees and bushes were vibrant colors, and it all smelled AMAZING after the fresh rain. So, even though today was nearly 20 miles, it was a great 20 miles.
Because Gordon has started his job, he can't answer the phone randomly in the early afternoon when I call him during free time in the evening (Arizona is 9 hours behind Spain), so the best time to call him is around 7:30-8:00 a.m. my time which is right around when I leave to start the hike. We are not technically supposed to have headphones in or call people while we are on the trail, but if I had to choose between talking with the same people I've been with for almost six weeks, or talking with the person I'm going to spend the rest of my life with, I'm going to choose Gordon every time, even if it's just through the phone. So in addition to a great morning physically and visually, I also got to talk to Gordon for the first hour of my hike which was just such a great way to start the day.
One of the major points of interest on the trail today was the Cruz de Fierro (Cross of Iron) that is close to the highest point on the Camino. Traditionally, along the trail, ancient pilgrims would pick up the biggest rock they could find and would carry it to this cross where they would pile them in a giant mound around the cross. Although modern pilgrims aren't finding the biggest rock around, they represent our sins and carrying it to the top of the mountain, most pilgrims bring a small stone, symbolic of their burdens to add to the mound of stones at the base of the cross. I chose my stone to represent me, so of course it is from Michigan! Only found in Lake Michigan, it is called a Petosky stone and originates from the time that the glaciers carved the Great Lakes out of the landscape of America, leaving fossilized corral that would later be found on the shores of Michigan, specifically, in Petosky ); It's especially unique because when it is dry, a Petosky stone will look like any other rock, but when it becomes wet, the fossilized pattern becomes clear and stark :-) I feel bad, I wish it had been a more spiritual experience for me in terms of letting go of a burden (as many people do the Camino for loved ones they've lost, or to help figure out their life), but it did feel cathartic to leave a small part of me there at the cross. It was something I thought about a decent amount when our teacher told us to collect a stone a few weeks before the study abroad began. And I thought a Petosky stone would be such a unique gift which I could offer at that cross to the Camino.
About 7-9 miles were spent ascending the mountain, and a little over half the hike was spent
Another fun snack we had along the camino today was fresh, perfectly ripe cherries. Around mile 12, we walked through this town with TONS of cherry trees, in every yard, park and open space. About a quarter mile out of town, literally in the middle of the trail, we found a woman with a small cart full of cherries. She offered us a bag for a euro (which we happily paid) and with a friendly conversation and a blessing. we went on our way. She found a bunch of three cherries together, pointed at the bunch and said "Para el Dinero, Salud y Amor." She was basically saying that the cherries were lucky - one to bless us with Money, the next for that have meant the most to me on the Camino so far. Not as much when people are appreciating what we are doing as pilgrims, but people who are just happy to see us, and are so friendly. They are such a ray of sunshine, and they bring so much joy with a few words, or a simple squeeze on the arm. I'm learning that a little kindness and genuine interest can go a long way.
Man, it was sad. So the way our days work is that there is a guidebook that tells us the suggested segments we should walk each day, and for the most part, out group has followed those suggested segments. But today, instead of staying in the suggested town, we were told to go one town further... You better believe that town we had to pass through -that the guidebook suggested- just happened to be the literal cutest town on the Camino. It had a river with a specific segment dedicated to swimming, it was small but very lively, there was a channel of the river to soak your feet in, one of my favorite sellos so far was from here, there was a great Roman bridge, it just had SOLID, CUTE VIBES. But we just had to stroll past it, simply smelling the flower and moving on.
And the town we are staying in?? NOT CUTE! After walking 20 miles, we needed to get food for lunch, so we went looking for a supermarket. After going to the third market that was closed permanently, we gave up and limped our way back to our hotel where we bought stuff from an over-priced mini mart across the street. Of course this is after I had to take a moment by myself to look for sellos, go to the tourism office, and try to find an ATM (all of which, like the grocery stores, were out of order or closed permanently...). Although this town looks good from afar - a cool castle in the middle, a clock tower, a cute main square, lots of Albergues - you can tell it is dying. It is decayed, and decrepit, and more than anything, empty.
Nevertheless, the dinner tonight was great - we finally got to an area that knows how to do vegetable soup RIGHT! But anyway, I'm excited to see the castle tomorrow, but I wonder what a better evening we could have had if we had stayed in Molinaseca with its swimmable river and adorable vibes. Alas, we may never know :D
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